From a distance, Mount Gorongosa looks pockmarked. The slopes of this Mozambican landmark were once covered with verdant rain forest. Now, they are scarred by deep holes — the result of clearcutting that exposed the soil and parched it, leaving only shrubs and grasses. But in recent years, the forest has been growing back, thanks to a previously foreign crop: coffee. As Juliasse Samuel Sabao walks through the plantation, at an altitude of some 1,000 metres (3,300 feet), he points out the obvious progress. One side of the track resembles a desert. On the other, a dense forest shelters carefull…